The History and Making of Portuguese Filhoses-Malassadas

Though outside of Portugal people immediately think of “pasteis de nata”, or more commonly just “natas” when they think of Portuguese desserts, the reality is that Portugal has some of the most desserts on the planet, with thousands of unique recipes dating into the first millennium.

Today we will examine one of the more simple, though unknowingly equally famous desserts that have now spread around the world, being the filhoses, or in the islands of Portugal and in the United States, more commonly known as malassadas. Similar to the Canadian “beaver tail” (no beavers are harmed in the making of them), filhoses, or malassadas, are one of the oldest form of donut, predating the more common round form with a hole and being separate form Portugal’s “bolas de Berlim”.

Fihloses originate with early Christian practices, specifically that of the “last fat bread”, where attempts would be made to use up what was left of the fat supplies before ritualistic fasts, as to prevent temptation and spoilage. This tradition often also consisted of using up certain supplies that would go along with fasts, and such as those of Lent. Roman and Celtiberian traditions predating this practice also would require using the fat that could not be appropriately rendered in time to produced such “fat breads”, a practice that spanned both modern day Portugal and Spain.

Before the former filhoses, Portugal in its Roman and Visigoth, as well as Suebi period would have consumed versions of this dessert referred to as “frictilia”, dough fried in lard and sweetened with honey.

Gil Vicente, writing in 1525 during the reign of King Manuel I would record these Portuguese specific desserts, the filhoses by name during the period of the winter festivals, preserving the traditions and practices of the Romans and Celtiberians, as well as those of early Christians.

You probably didn’t think that they would be this old, but they are and shockingly, they are even older, but that would require us going into obscure Portuguese medieval records just to prove a point… These are ancient and delicious.

Personally, I have a close connection to these, as my grandfather on my mother’s side was a baker, and both he, and my grandmother, would work together creating dozens upon dozens of these for family, friends and neighbours during the winter. Now that they have passed on, I carry on this tradition with my wife and children. Today, I will pass this tradition onto you, for you to enjoy a piece of Portugal, regardless of where you are in the world. The Portuguese have spread around the world and with them, we have brought out food, from marmalade (in fact traditionally made from quince, nor oranges) to fish and chips, malassadas to piri-piri chicken, Portuguese food took the world. Fun fact, Hawaiian donuts are derived from this specific variety of donut, being introduced by people from the Azores islands who migrated to Hawaii for new opportunities, along with Toronto, Montreal, New England and California.

Starter Ingredients:

• 2 2/3 tablespoons of dry yeast, equivalent to one packet (those designed for sweet breads such as leSaffre gold work best)

• 1/4 warm water

• 1 tablespoon white flour

• 1 tablespoon white sugar

Dough Ingredients:

• 4 eggs that have sat at room temperature

• 3/4 cups of white sugar

• 1/2 cup milk

• 4 tablespoons softened butter

• 3 3/4 cups white flour

• 1/4 teaspoon salt

• Lard or canola oil for frying

Topping:

• White sugar

• Ground Ceylon cinnamon

Starter Process:

1. In a small bowl, add warm water and yeast. Stir and allow to sit for 10-15 minutes.

2. Once time has passed, mix in flour and sugar, set to the side for later.

Donut Process:

1. Crack and whisk together the 4 large eggs until frothed for 3-5 minutes.

2. Over high heat, simmer milk, butter and sugar until the sugar is dissolved, allow to cool slightly.

3. Add flour and salt to the egg mixture, stirring frequently, while stopping to add liquid mixture from time to time.

4. The dough should be kneeded for 10-15 minutes until sticky and slightly stretchy.

5. Set aside for 1 hour, covered. Punch down dough and allow it to sit for one more hour, covered.

6. Heat oil to 180C in a large pot, no more than 3-4 inches in height of oil.

7. Cut dough into 20 equal sections and stretch each piece so that it is roughly the size of a small hand, and keep them very thin.

8. Place one, or no more than two at a time in the oil for 10 seconds per side (flip one and 10 seconds for the opposite side). Test the first donut, if more time is required then use it.

9. Remove and place on a cooling rack, or cloth and apply mixture of cinnamon and sugar, generously, like you’re a plump 16^th century Portuguese nun and you’re trying to use up all that sugar before the abbess finds out (more on the history of Portugal’s nuns at a later point.

10. Enoy a connection with history and the Portuguese community; call them filhoses, malassadas, call them Portuguese donuts, just enjoy them.

These pair well with a galao coffee, or espresso, along with a glass of tawny or reserve port (don’t drink ruby, life is too short for cheap port). Let me know what you think, as these are renowned the world over.